Without question, Critical Role has changed the way many people view Dungeons & Dragons. Perhaps one of the most potentially confusing for we DM’s, is the use of guns.
Yes, there were guns in D&D 3e, but until the character of Percy shot his way into our hearts, not many players were interested in them.
Now that Matt Mercer’s “Gunslinger” is available, it might leave some DMs scratching their heads, wondering how (or even IF) they should be using guns in their campaigns.
Are guns too overpowered to be using in a high fantasy game? What are the mechanics for guns in 5e?
Don’t worry, Halfling Hannah has got your back! To successfully use guns in your D&D campaign, you need to consider the following:
How will guns affect your game?
Rarity of guns and ammunition in your world
Mechanics of guns (reloading, misfiring and breaking)
Gunslinger abilities
Fun Ways to Introduce Guns if your game doesn’t currently include them
How Will Guns Affect Your Game?
If a player wants to create a character who uses guns, you really need to consider how the additions of guns will affect your world, especially if they were not presentbefore.
In some cases, this will be easy to answer, in others, you may need to spend some time reworking elements of your world to allow for such modern weapons.
In a primitive world, like the one I talk about in 10 Amazing Settings for Your Homebrew Campaign, guns would obviously make no sense; however, in a more traditional setting, and especially in a high tech or futuristic setting, guns would present little to no problem.
Consider carefully the world you are trying to build before saying yes to firearms in your campaign.
Rarity of Guns in Your World
When a player asks you if he/she can be a gunslinger, the next thing you need to consider is the continuity of the game.
Guns as a Rare Item
Of course, in a world where there is magic, monsters, and arcane weaponry, it isn’t fair fetched that there could be guns. But what you need to decide is how common such weapons are.
If guns are mostly unheard of to common people, then repairing a broken gun, finding ammunition and upgrading the gun are all going to be extremely difficult.
For the most part, the player will have to craft their own weapons or seek out specialized engineers. This can add an unfair level of challenge to the class, which you will want to explain to the player ahead of time.
Although it isn’t right to punish players for their class, in some cases it will be a necessity to keep the world constant, you simply need to be clear about it before hand.
If he/she wants to play the character regardless of the disadvantages, then make sure to provide the player with opportunities, such as NPCs, that help level the playing field.
For example, while in a major city the player could befriend a member of the Black Market who agrees to provide cheap ammunition in exchange for completing a job.
Need some help creating interesting NPCs for your party to interact with? Check out my article on how to create Unforgettable NPCs!
This fits in the story, provides a fun side quest for the party, and helps mitigate some of the disadvantages of using a rare item.
You should make sure that there are several opportunities like this in a world where guns are rare. (without overdoing it, of course. Part of the fun of using a rare item is the challenge it involves!)
Guns as a Common Item
On the other hand, if guns are plentiful, then your players shouldn’t have a problem, but it does dramatically change the structure of your game.
Suddenly, bandits, guards, and even merchants will be carrying guns, making jobs and encounters, potentially, more dangerous for players.
You, as the DM, will also need to be aware of who might own a gun and why. This can add a whole other layer of complications for the DM, or a whole other layer of fun challenges, depending on how you want to look at it!
Next, you will need to familiarize yourself with the D&D 5e rules of using guns.
Gun Mechanics in D&D 5e
Regardless of which gun the player is using (see the chart below of firearm options, damage, and number of shots before reloading) the mechanics stay the same.
Name
Cost
Ammo
Damage
Weight
Range
Properties
Palm Pistol
50g
2g (20)
1d8 piercing
1 lb.
(40/160)
Light, reload 1, misfire 1
Pistol
150g
4g (20)
1d10 piercing
3 lb.
(60/240)
Reload 4, misfire 1
Musket
300g
5g (20)
1d12 piercing
10 lb.
(120/480)
Two-handed, reload 1, misfire 2
Pepperbox
250g
4g (20)
1d10 piercing
5 lb.
(80/320)
Reload 6, misfire 2
Blunderbuss
300g
5g (5)
2d8 piercing
10 lb.
(15/60)
Reload 1, misfire 2
Bad News
Crafted
10g (5)
2d12 piercing
25 lb.
(200/800)
Two-handed, misfire 3, explosive
Hand Mortar
Crafted
10g (1)
2d8 fire
10 lb.
(30/60)
Reload 1, misfire 3, explosive
In order to keep guns fair in D&D, they come with a number of drawbacks. Although they do more damage than traditional bows and arrows, they take more time to reload, they can misfire, and they can even break.
Reloading (1 Action):
To keep guns from having an unfair advantage in a mostly medieval, fantasy world, some disadvantages come with the increase of fire power. Guns can only be shot a certain number of times before they must be reloaded (see the chart above for reload numbers for each gun). Reloading is an Action, which is a huge disadvantage in combat.
Misfiring
Guns are considered a relatively new technology in D&D and, therefore, have some risks. If a player rolls an attack and the roll is equal to or lower than the weapon’s misfire score (see the chart above), the gun misfires and requires an action to repair. The chance of misfire increases by 1 if the player firing the gun does not have proficiency in firearms.
If the attempt fails, the firearm is broken and must be mended outsideof combat at a quarter of the cost of the firearm.
Explosive Damage
When an attack hits, everything within 5 feet of the target must make a Dexterity Saving Throw (DC equal to 8+ your proficiency bonus + dexterity modifier) or suffer 1d8 fire damage. If the attack misses, the ammunition does not explode.
Understanding the Gunslinger
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiDt-uXrOPlAhUKSK0KHe4CD7kQjhx6BAgBEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fcriticalrole.fandom.com%2Fwiki%2FGunslinger&psig=AOvVaw3vTH0Y7D_SVHDifs3RRDMx&ust=1573602475713860Gunslinger is a custom fighter class created by Matt Mercer for his own party. I will list the highlights of this archetype which you might want to know before allowing it in your campaign, but you can find the class in Matt Mercer’s campaign setting bookTal’Dorei(pick it up at your local game store and support local nerds!!)
If you can’t get to a local store right now, you can still support local by purchasing this book here from our partners, Noble Knight Games. As an added bonus, you get $5 off! (Huzzah!)
Firearm Proficiency: add your proficiency bonus to firearm attacks
Gunsmith: You can use Tinker Tools to craft ammunition at half-cost, repair damaged firearms, and even create new firearms (left up to the DM’s discretion)
Adept Marksman: Allows for powerful “Trick Shots” to damage or disarm targets
Quickdraw: Player can stow and draw a firearm as one interaction.
Rapid Repair: You can attempt to repair a misfired weapon as a Bonus Action
Lightning Reload: Reload as a Bonus Action
Vicious Intent: Critical hits on 19 and 20
Hemorrhaging Critical: After a critical hit, the target suffers half the damage again at the end of their turn.
The mechanics of this class are actually very well balanced. The player using the Gunslinger class shouldn’t see a large variation of play from the other members of the party.
Trick Shot Bard (Blade Adaptation)
For those players wanting to do a combination of magic and firearms, the Trick Shot Bard is a great option! This adaptation of the Blade archetype from Xanathar’s Guide to Everything (which you can purchase at your local game store) has some really fun elements!
First of all, if you don’t have a copy of Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, I highly suggest picking one up. It gives so many more options for classes, as well as lots of additional Dungeon Master Tools. Again, pick it up at your local store, or here from Noble Knights ($10 off retail this time!Whoot Whoot!)
To play a Trick Shot Bard, choose the College of Swords archetype at level 3. Not all bards sing, in this case, danger acts are more his/her style. Performing daring acts of weapon expertise, these Bards are called “Blades.” Simply adjust the rest of the class for firearms instead of blades, and BOOM! You have a Trick Shot Bard!
I especially love the use of Flourishes with this class. While the Gunslinger has “Trick Shots” the Blade has “Flourishes” such as:
Defensive Flourish, Slashing Flourish, and Mobile Flourish, all of which are easily adaptable to firearms. To read more on this class, be sure to check out Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, page 15.
Fun Ways to Introduce Guns into Your Existing Campaign
If a player wants to create a new gunslinger character in the middle of your already existing, gunless, world, there are some fun options for how you can do this!
Giffs:
(My personal favorite!) Giffs, also known as Hippo Folk, can be found in Volo’s Guide to Monsters (again, shameless plug for local game stores! 🙂 or check it out on Noble Knights and get $10 off retail price!They are a space faring race of military gunslingers who are highly sought after as mercenaries. Giff love explosives and firearms, the louder the better. If you are looking to introduce guns to your campaign, Giffs are a great way to do it!
Whether your party has ticked off the wrong people, and they hire Giff mercenaries to “take care of them” or they end up working with Giffs as a part of a job, the Giffs’ love of guns and amazing fashion makes them a great way to give a new player access to an otherwise unheard of weapon. Plus, they are so much fun to play as an NPC! DM win-win!
Forbidden Weaponry
Another way to introduce guns to your campaign is to create lore around them. Myths of an extremely powerful weapon created long ago that was locked away because of its potential to slaughter the world.
Players can go on a side quest/good-old-fashion-dungeon-dive to find the weapon with the new (or existing) PC. Not sure exactly how to make that side quest and then get your players to actually follow it? No problem! I created an easy step by step guide for how to create awesome side quests. Check it out!
If you are introducing a new character, this quest allows for some bonding time and makes joining the party more natural. The new PC can either hire the party or come across them and persuade them to help, it’s up to your and your player!
Firearms can be a fun addition to your campaign, or they can clash with everything you are striving to do. In the end the question is not whether or not guns should be allowed in D&D, but whether or not they fit your campaign and what you are trying to accomplish.
I would suggest giving them a try, they can add some fun options and role play opportunities!
Until next time,
May your game have advantage, my friends!
-Halfling Hannah
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Are you a brand new or novice Dungeon Master looking to wade into the waters of homebrewing your own campaign? You are an intrepid adventurer, and I salute you!
While a homebrew can be overwhelming, it doesn’t have to be! You can make your world as detailed or as simple as you want.
To start writing your own homebrew adventure, you need to consider the following:
Setting
Villain
Conflict
Timeline
If you have these four things, you are well on your way to a great home-brew! But there are several considerations in each of these categories.
Choose Your Setting
Where your campaign takes place is the most important decision you need to make to start your homebrew. If you need some ideas, be sure to check out my article on 10 Amazing Campaign Settings for Your Next Homebrew
To create your own setting, you need to decide how you will deal with each of the following in your world:
Magic
How rare or common is magic in the world you are creating? Though this might seem like a small detail, it will greatly effect every part of your world, and must be considered carefully.
If magic is rare, then magic items will be nonexistent outside of major cities, and even there they will be extraordinarily expensive. Magic users may also find they are either perceived as blessings from the gods, or as evil to be destroyed. Either way, using magic around common folk will cause quite the stir!
If magic is common, however, then basic magically items and potions might be found all over your world, even in the most backwoods of villages. Likely there will be a great number of magically items for sale and no one will think twice about a magic user wondering about.
Races
What races are dominate in what areas of your world? Is it a diverse world, or is it dominated by primarily one race? Are their races that are believed to be extinct? All of these are important questions to answer when building your world, as they will directly affect your players choices and actions.
Technology
The cool thing about homebrewing is that you can decide the level of technology in your world! You can do space travel, you can have guns, you can have a steampunk world or a primitive world, it is completely up to you!
Keep in mind that if you chose to include technology that is not already a part of D&D, then you might have to create new items. (I am currently writing an article to help you learn how to do this the right way, check back soon!)
Monsters
If you want to homebrew, you really need to have access to as many monsters as possible, in order to pick the ones that best fit your world. This means you will want to pick up copies of The Monster Manuel, Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, and Volo’s Guide to Monsters. All of which you can find on my DM Must Haves page or pick up from your local game store.
You will also want to consider how common monsters are in your world. Are they a constant threat or are they more the stuff of fairytales than real life? Will your adventurers need to go to the limits of the world to find monsters, or will they be fighting them off day and night?
Wilderness & Cities
For this one, you will want to consider the ratio of wilderness or cities. You can go to extremes and create a campaign that is all wilderness or all city (think of a continent that is one continuous city) or you can have a blending of the two.
Once you have planned the ratio, then consider what this means for your world. If your world is mostly city, what does this mean for the animals and monsters? Were they eradicated long ago? If it is mostly wilderness, what does this mean for merchants and traders, technology and human interaction?
Consider all the implications you can, this might even help you create your main plot or side quests (or maybe even your villain!)
Lore
Finally, will you be using D&D’s lore, or creating your own. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands, or are just feeling really inspired, I would suggest using preexisting lore. It saves a lot of time and there are countless resources to help you!
Building Your World
Although you do not need a complete map of your world from the very beginning, you will need a basic idea of at least the area around which your players will start. I highly suggest having a concept of the location of the following:
At least 2-3 major cities
Ocean/coast lines
Large bodies of water and rivers
Mountain Ranges
Forests, Deserts, Tundras or any other distinctive areas
If you are someone who enjoys map building, I suggest checking outInkarent.comwhere you can create your own custom fantasy maps for free! I have used this website many times and love it. (I don’t receive commissions or bonuses for sending you to this site, consider this an unbiased opinion)
Choose Your Villain
Villains are the heart and soul of your campaign. Without something to fight against, your players will not feel a real sense of purpose. The villain of your campaign can be a person, a group, a political system, or even a god or cult. Whoever or whatever your villain is, you need to consider the following when creating it:
Why should your players care? A great villain should have some personal ties to the party. This could be as impersonal as destroying the players’ homes, or as personal as a family connection. One way or another, you have to make it personal if you want your players to go after them with their heart and soul.
Why are your players the only ones who can stop it? (or ARE they?) What is special about your party that makes them uniquely able to handle this villain? Are they a kingdom’s “last hope” or are they simply getting in the way? Are the people rooting for them, or are they a bunch of outsiders no one expects anything from?
What is at stake if they don’t stop the villain? The obvious one is the end of the world as they know it, but it doesn’t have to be that cosmic in scale. Even the slaughter of a city is enough of a tragedy that your players will likely fight to stop it. Again, this should be personal. Do they need to save a friend? A city? A forest? Make it specific and, before you ever introduce the villain, make them care about it.
How will they find out? I like to have the villain quest available in several locations from several NPCs, allowing the players multiple locations and times to stumble upon the truth of what is really going on. This is much more fun than just telling them about the villain, everyone loves a mystery!
What are the options for stopping the villain? Only having one option isn’t any fun! “Here’s a bad guy, kill them” is very one sided. Think through some different options, such as subversion or insighting revolts and riots. The more possible options, the more likely your players will find a way they will enjoy most.
Know Where you are Going but NOT How You Will Get There
While you are choosing the setting and the villain, your players should still be the ones to write the story. This means you need to know where you will end up (defeating the Big Bad) but you should have no clue how your players are getting there. Should counter intuitive? Well, it is a little, but here’s how you do it.
Multiple Roads to the Same Destination
As the old adage says, “All roads lead home.” This can be changed for DMs to “All roads lead to the Villain.” Never try to force your players down one road. All humans hate that. Instead, give them the illusion of choice. You know no matter what they do, a specific NPC will interact with them. I know that. They have no idea. Keep it that way.
Allow your players to make whatever choice they want, then adjust your NPC locations or attack or whatever else you have planned to move the plot forward to follow them. This very simple idea will save you many a headache and keep your players happy too!
Be Willing to Trash Ideas
The most difficult part of a home-brew campaign is facing the fact that many of your brilliant quests, NPCs, and lore will never be discovered by your players. If this thought in unbearable to you, then you might not want to make a home-brew.
All players are different and they will all want to solve their problems in various ways. There is nothing wrong with this. You need to embrace the fact that most of the ideas you have, will never be shared. The over all plot will be developed, of course, but probably NOT in the way you thought.
If you want to run a home-brew that is actually fun for your party, then you need to make peace with this fact before you ever run a game. If not, you will be constantly trying to force your players to go places and interact with NPCs, and that is no fun for anyone.
Setting Timelines
While you may think it sounds like great fun to keep a campaign going to years (I know I certainly do!) many of your players simply won’t find this realistic.
Your home-brew should have a timeline in which the plot progresses, regardless of your players actions. These plot points should have real and noticeable effects on the world, thus pushing your players to act. This will ensure they game progresses.
For your first home-brew, I would suggest a timeline of 9 weeks. This allows players to commit to a certain amount of time, making it more likely they will 1. show up and 2. finish the campaign and 3. you won’t run out of ideas.
As much as you think that you will never run out of ideas, running a homebrew is exhausting. There will be weeks when you won’t have time to prepare and times when you are simply out of ideas. Having a set end in mind will help to keep you sane until you get used to the demands of home brewing.
Not Easy, But Worth It.
Creating your own home-brew adventure will not be an easy task. The steps I have given you will certainly help in the process, but there are many other considerations you will need to address as you go. There is be a lot of time and effort that will go into creating your world. But please trust me when I say it is worth the effort.
When you see your players’ looks of amazement as you describe your sprawling city, or their anger when facing your villain, or tears at winning (or losing) in a conflict you created…there’s nothing quite like it.
I hope this encourages you to take the plunge and try your hand at home-brew. Because, we need more DMs like you!
Dungeons & Dragons is an incredible game because it allows players to create and interact with a world of their own making.
However, the only way your players can feel as if they are emerged in the world and not just looking at it from the outside, is if you describe it to them in enough detail to keep them engaged, but not so much that you loose their attention. Talk about a tough job!
If you want to be a Dungeon Master, then you need to be a master of description. You have probably heard this before, I know I have, but what I didn’t hear much about was how.
How do you, as the DM, give detailed, engaging, and appropriately long descriptions of the world to your players? You need to focus on the following:
Your Vocabulary
Order of Importance
Showing NOT Telling
Engaging the Senses
Length
How do you blend all of these aspect together into a description that will leave your players hungry for more? Just follow Halfling Hannah down the rabbit’s hole and I will tell you..
Words. LOTS of Words
The foundation to becoming a master of description is to become a hoarder of words. Having a small vocabulary will make it incredibly difficult for you as you try to paint word pictures for your party. You will not be able to use any of the other tips below if you don’t take this one seriously. Seriously.
Some easy ways to broaden your vocabulary could be any of the following:
READ! Reading is the #1 way to broaden your vocabulary and help you learn how to describe. Keep a journal and write down phrases you really like from your favorite books, or favorite words you come across while reading that strike you. This also has the added benefit of giving you campaign ideas!
Download a “Word of the Day” app and try to use the word in conversations throughout the day. This may give you some really random words, but most of them are really fun! This is a great way to gradually increase your vocabulary in the midst of your busy life. Most apps will have a notification which will pop up on your phone or watch, giving you the word of the day without any remembering on your part!
Download a Thesaurus App. Now, when you are writing out the description of the upcoming town or landscape, substitute some of your boring words for more interesting ones. Such as changing “a big tree” for “a monstrous oak” or “a small river” for “a babbling brook.” Even these small substitutions will make a big difference in your overall presentation.
Try one or all three and see what a difference daily vocabulary will make in your descriptions! (Plus, it will make you sound smarter too! +1 to Charisma!)
Most Important Details First!
When you are trying to decide how you should describe a new area, be it a room or a city, to your players, you should always describe the most important features first. While it may be difficult to determine what is important at first, real life can help us out. Take a look at this picture and note the first 2-4 things you saw first.
If your brain is anything like mine, you will say you saw a statue with outstretched arms, a blue bay, and a sprawling city surrounded by mountains. If I was going to try to describe this scene to my players, those at the things I would focus on during my opening remarks. I wouldn’t try to describe all the buildings in detail, or get side tracked by the boats in the bay, I would start with the big stuff and get to the smaller later as it became important.
Let’s do the same exercise, but with a smaller scene. Again, jot down 2-4 things you see first.
The first things I noticed were the large stone hearth, a lively burning fire, a framed picture of a cocker spaniel and square wooden tables set for dinner. The nick-nacks on the shelves didn’t catch my attention until later, so they are not as important and shouldn’t be mentioned until one of the party asks to look around more carefully.
Note: If you do want to mention small objects, like the nick-necks in this case, because there might be something important about them, I would say, “You see a number of interesting nick-nacks lined up on wooden corner-shelves on either side of the fireplace.” That is enough to let you player know to look at them without going into details that might be boring.
Generally speaking, order of importance goes something like this:
Living creatures: if there is something alive in the room, then mention it first. If you peeked into a room that had a bugbear in it, I am willing to bet you wouldn’t pay attention to anything else.
Large structures/features: Pillars, stairs, doors, mountains, forests, lakes, etc. The largest object or structure in the room/area should be described first.
Exits: Especially if you are in a dungeon, your players eyes would be drawn to possible ways out. Make sure to mention any doors, windows, or roads/paths.
Anything Out of the Ordinary: Floating swords, fountains of blood, a giant statue of a unicorn. If there is anything at all in the room that you wouldn’t expect, you should definitely describe it in your opening remarks.
If there isn’t anything that stands out, then you should give a basic description of furniture, crates, chests, or any other ordinary objects in the room. If players want more details, they will ask. Trust me. Keep these basic.
After your “opening remarks” as I like to call them, your players will want to explore, investigate and interact with the area. This is a great time to give “blurts.” These are greater details about specific items or part of the bigger picture you just described. Keep these short, colorful and to the point.
For example, if a player wants to investigate the crates in the corner of the room, you could say,
“You set your hand down on one of the crates and a small puff of dust spirals into the air. You brush away the thick layer of dirt from the lid and find a date stamped onto the top from 10 years ago.”
This description is short, interesting and encourages the players to do more. There is nothing worse to a player who wants to do something than to listen to you list off a bunch of details they have 0 interest in.
As an old teacher use to say, “Essays (in our case, descriptions) should be like mini skirts. Long enough to cover everything, but short enough to keep you interested!”
Show DON’T Tell
The example above also follows our next rule. Show, don’t tell. Instead of trying to describe a room, scene or item in minute detail (unless obviously required) attempt to show the players instead.
In the example above, I could have just told my players that the boxes were old, but instead I showed them by describing the dust and the date stamp.
Try to create word pictures that paint a scene of what is happening instead of just stating the obvious. Players will feel more like they are living in and engaging with the world you are describing as opposed to simply processing information. This seemly small difference is what separates engaged players from bored players.
See more examples of how to do this in different circumstances below!
Temperature:
“It’s very cold in the room”
“You walk into the room and immediately begin to shiver. Your breath swirls in crystalline clouds that begin to form frost in your beards and helms.”
“It’s really hot”
You wince as the torrid air of the room sweeps across your face, making you take an involuntary step back away from the blaze.
Weather:
“It’s raining”
You listen to the pattering of rain drops as they fall and scatter across the metal roofs, covering the village like a gentle blanket.
“It’s sunny and warm.”
As you head out, you can’t help but stop and stretch in the warm and happy sunshine of this beautiful autumn day.
Battle:
“This is a large Gnoll”
Standing head and shoulders taller than the other Gnolls, you see the muscular form of another Gnoll warrior pushing his way through the pack.
“You kill the goblin”
You bring your sword down with all the strength you have left and cleave into the base of the goblin’s neck. Your sword slashes deep into the goblin’s chest, it growls, spraying blood onto your armor, then slumps to the ground, no longer moving.
Engage the Senses (All of Them!)
Our brains are wired to think about the world around us in terms of our senses. Smells link to memories, sounds can make us feel tense or relaxed, and a beautiful sunset can make us cry.
All of these require senses and, often, multiple senses. So why do we tend to only use sight when describing? You should be engaging multiple senses as often as you can (although certainly not all at once!)
I like to throw in one or two extra senses each time I give an opening remark. For example, while I am describing the interior of an inn, I will throw in the sense of smell (by describe the smell of food cooking or stale beer) and sense of hearing (by describing clicking glasses, music, or overlapping conversations of the other patrons).
If I am describing a landscape, I will do the same thing. As I describe the important details of the forest, I could include sense of touch (by describing the weather) and sense of perception (by describing the “feeling” they get from the forest).
Here is a quick list of senses humans are capable of feeling (What, did you think there were only 5?)
Vision
Smell
Taste
Touch
Sound
Temperature– Sense of hot or cold
Pain– Can be physical or emotional in yourself or others.
Light source– The ability to sense a light source in the dark.
Direction– Knowing which way to go. Sometimes correct, sometimes not.
Pressure– Feeling changes in atmospheric pressure or pressure applied to the skin.
Perception– The ability to feel if you are being watched or followed
Intuition- A gut feeling on a person or situation
Distance– Sense of how far away something is.
Time– The ability to sense the flow of time. Can be slowed or sped up.
Familiarity– How familiar something somewhere or someone feels
When giving a description, try adding one or two of these senses to add depth and tangibility to your world.
Putting It All Together
The most beautiful aspect of Dungeons and Dragons (in my opinion) is the collective imagination. A group of people come together and share a world of their own making, and you, Dungeon Master, get to create the seed of that imagination.
Your descriptions of the world you players inhabit will become and image in their minds which will guide their actions. So you need to take this seriously. If your players aren’t engaged or excited, it’s likely because you aren’t giving them the foundation they need to imagine OR you are boring them to death with unnecessary details.
If you follow this process, I promise you will see a change in your players. When they can see, taste, smell and touch your world, it will become reality.
Keep working hard! We’ve got your back DM.
Until next time,
May your game have advantage, my friends.
-Halfling Hannah
Rewarding Players with Magic Items Without Breaking Your Game
Players love magic items and they can make for cool rewards and incentives. But, magic items are also much more powerful than ordinary items and have the potential to create an unbalanced game.
I have run into this problem before, and it isn’t easy to rebalance your game if you have given an overpowered magic item. If you simply have the item “break” or steal it one night while the party is carousing, your players will be in an uproar.
It is much better to consider the effects of such items before you give them out than try to fix the problems they create after. Before you start handing out magical weapons and armor, make sure you give this a read!
To keep the game balanced, you should follow these basic rules when rewarding players with magical items:
Give players magic items only after extremely difficult encounters, or when they are expl0ring challenging areas, such as lairs of high CR monsters or ancient temples or castles.
Uncommon-Lengendary magical items should not be available for purchase in common shops.
No magical items should be available for purchase outside of major cities.
Powerful magical items should always have some kind of disadvantage or drawback to make players think about when and how they use them.
Not all magical items have to be powerful, or even useful, to be fun!
The Value of Magic
Before you start handing out magic items like Oprah at Christmas, you need to understand the value of magic.
Yes, Dungeon & Dragons is founded on the fact that magic is real and present, but this does not mean that every one has the ability to use it. To use magic, a person must be chosen by the gods, chosen by fate, or spend years and years studying. This does not include most of the masses.
Just because everyone in your adventuring party can use magic does not mean it is common. Your party is uncommon, that is why the story is about them.
This means that magic and items enchanted by those who can use it should be difficult to come by.
In most places even common magic items, like potions of healing, are not going to be readily available.
Your adventurers should not be able to find Potions of Superior Healing just sitting on the shelves of every shop they wander in to. These items are crafted by individuals who know at least a little magic, and it is likely they will cost more than gold.
A village herbalist might be willing to craft some potions if the party completes a task for him in return and anything more than a common potion would be unheard of.
Magic is valuable. Even common magic items are valued between 50-100 gold pieces.
A simple potion of healing costs 50 gp, that is the same cost as a well made great sword and you can only use a potion once!
Too often we think that because magic is a part of the world that it should be readily available, but this is not the case. Magic and magic items are valuable and they should be treated as such. If you are looking to reward your party with magic items, be sure you are not devaluing magic by giving too many too often.
Unless you decide otherwise, most magic items cannot be bought or sold in ordinary shops. Even in large cities the dealing of magic items is likely to be more like the selling of fine art in today’s world. Something more for collectors than adventurers.
It is far more likely your party will find magic items in long forgotten and sealed tombs or in treasure hoards and dungeons than at the local shop.
Magic Items by Level
Magic items are categorized by the rarity of the item, ranging from Common to Legendary. Common items are the most plentiful while legendary items are one of a kind. An easy way to quickly determine what level of magic items to give your party members is by using players’ levels.
Rarity
Character Level
Value
Common
1st or higher
50-100 gp
Uncommon
1st or higher
101-500 gp
Rare
5th or higher
501-5,000 gp
Very Rare
11th or higher
5,001-50,000 gp
Legendary
17th or higher
50,001 + gp
Although you can choose to give a first level player access to a rare magic item, this should be for story purposes, not just because such items are “cool.”
Giving players too many magic items or items that are over powered will break your game! Your game will start to focus on the items, not the players and it willtake away from your players’ story.
Preventing Magic Items from Breaking Your Game
How can you give magic items without breaking your game? Here are some tips to follow:
Limit Number of Items
There are several factors that limit the number of magic items individual players can use at one time, such as physically wielding a magic weapon, or using an action to activate a pendent or ring, and attunement.
However, some items give players bonuses just by wearing them and do not require attunement. You need to be careful when giving out such items.
Although a +2 to Armor Class may not seem like much, giving players multiple of such items can lead to a player having an AC of 25, making them basically impossible to hit outside of magical means. This can quickly become an irritation, to say the least. You need to keep track of the magical items each of your players has in order to avoid having an entire party with ridiculous ACs.
You also want to make sure players are not drowning in magic items that give them unfair advantages. You don’t want players relying on items and not on their own creativity or ideas.
If you give players a magic lock pick that can unlock any lock, or a staff of dispel magic that renders magically locked doors useless, then players will miss out on the tension of getting into locked rooms or having to find alternative routes when they fail to pick a lock.
These types of items can remove an important aspect of the game, and you should use caution when giving them out. However, there is a way to give such items and still maintain game balance.
Give Items Limitations or Consequences
Powerful items should have negative consequences. Just like powerful spells, such as Knock and Wish have drawbacks and consequences that make players think twice about using them, magic items should use the same mechanics.
If you are using magical items found in The Dungeon Master’s Guide (which you can pick up eat your local game store) such items will already come with drawbacks; however, if you are homebrewing your own magical items, consider adding one of the following:
A Curse: Power often comes with a price. A cursed weapon can give great boons but also have great consequences. Come up with a lore to surround the item, such as a mad mage, an evil king, or a commoner’s rage. Depending on the lore, the item should exact a price from the wielder in order to be used. Such as sacrificing health for a “blood price,” becoming exhausted after use, or having to roll against temporary madness after use.
Activation: Before use, some items need to be activated by the wielder. This can be either a bonus action or action depending on the strength of the item. This can be a word that must be spoken or an action that must be performed. Requiring activation will limit when players can use items and how many they can use in a round of combat.
Charges: Another way to balance a magic item is to give it charges. This limits the number of times a player can use the item in one day and makes the players think twice before using it.
Requires Attunement: A player can only be attuned to three items at one time. Items that require attunement force the user to choose which items they want to use.
Not all Items Need to be “Useful”
Not all magical items need to be powerful weapons of lore. It can be just as fun and entertaining to give magical items that create minimal, useless or comical effects. Such as:
A magic sword that smells like farts when swung.
A necklace that glows when the wearer is embarrassed.
A belt of tickling.
A ring that gives the wearer +1 to AC, but smells strongly like rancid meat.
A wand of rainbows, when held up to the light it creates small rainbows
Or any number of comical effects. You can also pair such effects with stronger items to make them less appealing or to create fun encounters with NPCs.
Know What Magic Items Your Group Needs
If you are trying to decide which magic items to give your party, one method is to look at your party’s weaknesses and find items that will help mitigate them. Many DMs use this method and will even tailor items to fit their players. To choose items that your party will be excited to find, consider these factors:
Total party HP: Is your group light on Health? Then they might benefit from an item that increases their HP maximum, give them temporary Hit Points or keeps players from falling unconscious.
Total Party Skills: Is there a particular skill your party lacks? Such as Charisma or Wisdom? An item that increase these skills or gives advantage on them would be very useful for your party!
Story Based Items: Items that lead to side quests or main story options are a great way to keep your players engaged! That sword you guys found a month ago in a tomb, it starts glowing, revealing your position to your enemies. Using magic items in this way is both fun and useful. Give it a try!
Backstories: Another option for choosing items is to use the player’s backgrounds and backstories. Pick items that fit with what your players should be familiar with or would be interested in for more role play opportunities!
Magic Items and Your Campaign
Magical items can have a huge impact on the style, pace and balance of your game. Although you do need to be cautious and plan what items you give your players, you shouldn’t be terrified to give them anything at all. Magical items can create fun role play opportunities and help your players in difficult situations. If you follow this guide, you can give your player’s items without being afraid of breaking your game!
Until next time,
May your game have advantage, my friends!
-Halfling Hannah
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Maybe you have been playing Dungeons & Dragons for years, collecting story ideas and lore to weave into your own epic plot. Or perhaps you have only watched Critical Role or other D&D live shows and are looking to start your own game for the very first time.
Whether you are a veteran player turned Dungeon Master, or a brand new convert, being the DM is a hugely important part of the game and so much fun! A good DM is hard to come by and the thought of leading the night can be a bit nerve racking. If you are thinking about running your first game, you will find everything you need to know right here!
What’s Necessary and What’s Not
First of all, let’s start with what you will absolutely need. This is the bare minimum to be able to play the game. If you are able to make some purchases, then you will need:
A Player’s Handbook $49.99 (at local game shops)– This book contains all the rules for players, equipment, weapons, and combat rules. This is absolutely necessary for you to at least have access to these rules if you need to look something up.
A Dungeon Master’s Guide $49.99 (at local game shop)-This book contains monsters, information on creating NPCs and settlements, how to create campaigns and other useful information for running your game. It is absolutely necessary.
A couple sets of dice– You can get away with just one set of dice, but plastic dice are cheap, and you will often have to roll multiple dice, so it becomes much easier to have multiple sets. Also, you will want to have some extra sets on hand for when a player forgets to bring their own.
A DM Screen- This doesn’t need to be anything fancy, even a box will do, you just need something to hide your notes and dice rolls from your party. A computer works just as well if you are looking at rules and rolling dice online.
If you cannot spend any money and are looking to start for free, then you will want to bookmark the following websites:
Basic Rules- This is a free release from Wizards of the Coast that contains all the basic rules for playing. This does not have all the rules or in depth explanations you will get with the purchase of the book, but it is a great place to start. https://media.wizards.com/2018/dnd/downloads/DnD_BasicRules_2018.pdf
For free dice, just Google “Roll Dice” and Google will provide you with dice. You can add however many dice you need and you can even add a modifier! Heck, it even adds it all up for you! No more panic math!
Although you only need these few things to get started, you will find it difficult to be a proficient DM with just these tools. As you can, I would highly recommend picking up the following:
Published Adventures– I would really recommend starting here. Although they are more money up front, running a published adventure for your first campaign will take a lot of stress off of you! There are a lot of adventures to choose from, so you are certain to find something your party will enjoy. I recommend The Curse of Strahd and the Waterdeep adventures to start. (Find all the published adventures with summaries, reviews and linksto purchase on my DM Must Haves page)
A battle map– This is a dry/wet erase grid map that allows you to draw out battle scenarios, giving players a clear idea of what is happening. (see example here)
Miniatures- These can be expensive, buy them as you need them and you will gradually acquire an extensive collection. Buy them unpainted and paint them yourself to make this cheaper. I have lots of tips and tutorials for how to do that, check them out!
A Notebook– You will want a good quality notebook to keep notes on players, plot and NPCs
Resource Books– Although you only NEED two books, there are a large selection of extra resource books available. These are useful as they have more monster, race, class and environment options for you to choose from. I would recommend picking upThe Monster Manual, Volo’s Guide to Monsters, and Xanthar’s Guide to Everything, in that order. (You can see my full review of each resource on my DM Must Haves page.)
Spell Cards– Spells can be really difficult to remember and track, you will likely have to look up a spell nearly every time it is used, useless it is a common “go-to” spell for your players. Spell cards make this easy as you can pull all the spells your party knows and have them on hand for quick reference. They are much easier to use than the Handbook during combat.
If you are looking to buy my recommended tools, check out my DM Must Have Page.
Your Responsibilities vs. Player Responsibilities
Next, you need to understand what your responsibilities are as a Dungeon Master. As the DM, you are responsible for:
Knowing the rules– This is the main reason you are here! You are the keeper of the rules. You need to know them! Not all of them, that is nearly impossible, but your should have a basic understanding of how the game works so you can make decisions on the fly.
Making Fair and Unbiased Decisions- You can have a favorite player, we all do, but the table shouldn’t be able to tell who it is. Everyone is trusting you to be fair with all your decisions, so don’t play favorites and don’t be spiteful.
Making Your Players Feel Awesome: You should be your players biggest fan. You should want to create scenes and encounters which allow each player to shine. You should not be so focused on “your story” that you forget this game is about the players. Your biggest goal should be to have your players leave every session feeling like heroes.
Provide a Collective Story: You know where the story will end, but you should have no idea how the players will get there. And that is okay. As a matter of fact, that is great! Your job is to be the facilitator of the collective story. Let your players decide their own path and simply provide them with opportunities.
Describe, Describe, DESCRIBE: This is your greatest responsibility as a Dungeon Master. You are the eyes and ears of the group. It is up to you to feed the collective imagination with sensory details that paint a complete picture. This game is mostly played in the “Theater of the Mind,” except for miniatures and battle maps, there is very little the players can physically interact with, which is why your role as storyteller is so vitally important. It is the only connection your players have to the world, sever that connection and the game simply isn’t fun.
If you need some help learning how to describe in a way that keeps your players engaged, you can see my a full guide to awesome descriptions.
These are the things you are responsible for, however, your players also have a responsibility to the game, and you need to be sure to clearly communicate your expectations. You players should:
Be Respectful- both to you and to other players. This means no arguing or pouting.
Be On Time- You put a lot of time and effort into putting everything together, your players should be on time to the session.
Know Their Characters– Your players are responsible for knowing what their character can and cannot do, as well as understanding race and class abilities. Everyone makes mistakes, but your players should know how to play their own characters without being reminded constantly.
Know Their Spells– You are not responsible for constantly checking to make sure the players are using spells correctly. They should know how their spells work and should be using them correctly. Of course, you should have quick access to the spell to check if something doesn’t sound right, but it is not your job to tell your players how spells work.
Pay Attention– Players should not be distracted during the game. They should come ready to pay attention and participate.
If you find you are having difficulties keeping your group engaged, check out these helpful articles:
While there are a mind blogging amount of rules in Dungeons & Dragons, from underwater combat to survival, there are really only a few you need to have memorized. Make sure to keep this up and handy during your game for a quick reference! Trust me, you will need it.
When to Roll
Rolling the dice is an integral part of D&D, but many new DMs either have players roll way too much, or not at all. Here is a quick reference on when you should have players roll in D&D. If you want full details and explanations of why, check out my Ultimate Guide on When to Roll.
Situation
Term
Dice to Roll
Start of combat
Initiative- determines what order players and monsters take turns in combat
1d20 + dex
Combat
Attack- determines whether or not the attack hits the enemy
Damage- When an attack hits, roll for how much damage the attack does
Saving Throw– To avoid a negative outcome, such as a triggered trap
1d20 + attack modifier
Dice depends on weapon. See page149 of the Player’s Handbook
1d20 + skill modifier (such as dex, depending on the situation)
Outside of Combat: When a player wants to do something that is not obviously simple to accomplish
Ability Check– You can see the full list of all ability checks and when to ask for them below.
It is important to note that you don’t have to ask for an ability check every time players want to do anything. Simple actions, such as looking in a shop window or picking up a barrel, do not require a roll.
1d20 + skill modifier
Playing the odds
Percentile Roll- When you want to determine how often something will occur, roll for something random, or if an NPC or player is stuck between two decisions and isn’t sure which they would take, you roll a percentile dice, also called a d100. Before you roll, choose a range of numbers or a percentage range. For example, if players would have a 30% chance of getting pickpocketed in a big city, you would roll a d100 and if the roll is between 1-30, they are pickpocketed, if it is over 30, they are not.
2d10
Basic Combat Rules
It is important that you understand the basic rules of combat so that your encounters can go smoothly. Combat is the longest part of the game, a single encounter can take hours even when do well. A poorly run combat can last much too long and become tedious. Here are the basic rules you need to understand.
Initiative
As mentioned above, initiative is the order in which players and monsters take turns during combat.
I roll initiative as soon as I determine that combat is the only possible outcome to a situation. If players are sneaking around a monster or trying to persuade, I do not go into initiative. As soon as I am sure there is no other option, I stop everything and have players roll initiative.
Now, as soon as players realize they are about to enter battle, they are going to want to try and sneak in actions, such as casting mage armor or drawing a weapon. If they have no thought to do this before I ask for initiative, I do not let them take any actions until their turn. This just makes things easier.
Turns During Combat
When in the initiative order, players must take turns. Players are only allowed to do actions during their turn. Each turn of combat counts for 6 seconds of in game time. During each turn players can do 3 things, take an action, move, take a bonus action, as outlined in the chart below:
Per Turn of Combat Players Can:
Take 1 of the following Actions
Attack with a ranged or melee weapon
Cast a spell
Dash- double movement
Disengage- move away from the enemy without drawing an attack of opportunity
Dodge- gain advantage against the next attack aimed at them
Help- give an ally advantage on an ability check or attack
Hide- attempt to hide from the enemy, requires a Stealth Check
Players can also choose to reason with or persuade an enemy as an action, or any other action that would require most of their effort and time in a 6 second turn. It is up to you what you allow or don’t allow as an action.
Move: up to their base speed
Movement can be broken up however the players want, they just cannot move more than their total base speed in one round. (Most often 30 feet) Players can also choose not to move or to move less than their base speed.
Take 1 Bonus Action
Note: a bonus action can be taken before the action.
Yell out a quick command or phrase
Cast a spell ONLY IF the spell specifically says “Bonus Action”
Players will often have abilities from their race or class that give them bonus actions, such as a Barbarian’s ability to Rage and a Bard’s “Bardic Inspiration.” It is up to the player to remember to do these. If they forget during their turn and ask to use their bonus action during another player’s turn, they cannot.
Attacks of Opportunity
During combat, a player or monster is considered engaged with an enemy while within 5 feet of them. If either of them attempts to move away without taking the “disengage” action, then the other get an attack of opportunity. This is essentially a free attack that does not have to be on the player’s or monster’s turn.
For example, if a player is fighting an orc and want to run to a fallen friend, as soon as they move away from the orc, the orc can make an attack of opportunity. This works just like a normal attack.
Prone
Some spells and attacks have chance to knock creatures prone. This means they have fallen over on the ground. The follow rules apply to a prone creature:
Melee attacks against the prone creature have advantage
Ranged attacks against the prone creature have disadvantage
To stand back up, the prone creature must use half its movement
Cover
If a creature or player hides behind an object or is partially blocked by something, then that creature has cover. The amount of cover depends on how much of the creature is hidden. A small creature hiding behind a rock would have ¾ cover, while a large creature hiding behind the same rock would only have ½ cover.
You can choose from two options when using cover.
If a creature has any kind of cover, you can give the attacker disadvantage on attack rolls. This is the easy option.
If a creature has ½ cover, they receive +3 to their armor class, if ¾ cover, they receive +5 to their armor class (AC), thus making them harder to hit.
Critical Hits and Failures
Perhaps the most fun of the game, critical hits and failures allow you to have some fun. During combat, a critical hit (rolling a 20 on the dice, also called a “natural 20”) doubles the attack damage on that hit. Either have the player roll double the dice, or simply double the number they roll. (I like to roll double the dice because the sound is satisfying.) NOTE: This does not apply to modifiers! ONLY DOUBLE THE DICE.
A critical failure, rolling a 1, also called a “natural 1”, on the twenty sided dice results in something very bad happening. Some common results of a natural 1 are:
Roll a d20 for a random effect:
Result:
1-5
Hit another player by mistake (if one is nearby)
6-10
Weapon becomes stuck
11-15
Stumble and fall prone
16-20
Weapon breaks
Dropping Below 0 Hit Points
If you have a player who gets in over his/her head, it is possible they could drop to 0 hit points. If they do, follow the rules below depending on the situation:
If a creature Drops to 0 hit points:
Instant Death
If a player character (PC) or creature takes damage equal to 2x their maximum number of hit points in one attack, that creature instantly dies.
Example: A PC has a maximum hit points of 21. A Dragon’s attack hits her dealing 42 points of damage, she is instantly dead. She rolls no death saves and cannot be stabilized or healed. It does not matter if this attack happens while she has 21 hit points or while she has 5 hit points. This rule is entirely based on the maximum hit points.
Falling Unconscious
Other than the scenario above, when a player reaches 0 hit points, they fall unconscious and must spend their turn rolling Death Saving Throws. They cannot do anything else.
Death Saving Throws
After falling unconscious, players must make a Death Saving Throw on each of their turns until they are stabilized or healed.
To make a death saving throw, have the player roll a 20 sided dice. If the number is 10-20, it is a success. If the number is 9-1 it is a failure. Continue to do this on the player’s turn until the player gets 3 failures and dies, or 3 successes and stabilizes, whichever comes first.
Stabilizing a Creature
A creature can be “stabilized” (no longer in danger of dying) in two ways:
Rolling three successful death saving throws
Another player uses his/her action to stabilize the unconscious player (DC 10)
Once stabilized the player is still unconscious until they regain hit points, but they are no longer in danger of death.
Regaining Hit Points
An unconscious player regains consciousness when they are healed at least 1 hit point. This can be accomplished by spells, healing potions, or rest.
Basic Rules Outside of Combat
Ability Checks (The most used mechanic of the game)
When a player asks if they can perform an action, such as climbing a tree or sneaking past a guard, you will want them to roll an ability check. This determines the level of success or failure the player achieves. For example, if a player asks to climb a tree, you would ask them to roll an “athletics check.” The player will then roll a d20 and add their athletics modifier (found in the “Skills” section of the Player Character Sheet). You will determine how difficult it will be to succeed, this is called a DC (discussed in detail below). If the player rolls the DC or above, they succeed, if they roll below the DC, they fail.
To know which ability check to ask for depends on what the player wants to do. Use this helpful chart to determine which ability check would fit the best!
Ability Checks
When to Ask for Them
Strength
General check of the PC’s brute strength to accomplish an action, such as breaking down a door or lifting something heavy
Dexterity
A general check of how nimble a PC is
Constitution
A general check for how well a PC can hold something down, like liquor, spoiled food, or tolerate a foul stench without retching
Intelligence
A general check for if a PC is smart enough to understand something
Wisdom
A general check for if the PC has the common sense to do or NOT do something
Charisma
A general check for how likeable a PC is
Acrobatics (Dex)
Use if a PC wants to do graceful flips or balance on a narrow ledge
Animal Handling (Wis)
Taming/interacting with animals, riding or calming a frightened animal
Arcana (Int)
The ability to understand how magic works, such as seals, magical traps, or magic ruins
Athletics (Str)
Jumping, leaping, landing or any other movement that is powerful but not necessarily graceful (which would be acrobatics)
Deception (Cha)
Lying, avoiding questions, trying to be misleading in any way
History (Int)
Knowledge of historical events, people and lores
Insight (Wis)
Telling if a person is lying or being earnest and sincere. Understanding motivations of others or knowing when something is “off”
Intimidation (Cha)
Trying to threaten or scare someone
Investigation (Int)
Carefully and thoroughly searching a person or place. This takes time, setting it apart from “perception” below.
Medicine (Wis)
Knowing what causes an illness or what condition a wounded person is in and how to best help them
Nature (Int)
Textbook knowledge of nature, names of plants and animals, where they are located, what plants can be used for medicine and which are poisonous
Perception (Wis)
Noticing things in passing. This is a quick glance or pass over, unlike investigation above
Performance (Cha)
Putting on a show or trying to get attention. Can be used for a wide variety of actions, such as playing a song, telling a story, making a scene to distract guards, etc.
Persuasion (Cha)
Trying to convince others to do what the PC wants. This can be negotiating with an NPC on prices, bribing a guard, begging for mercy, or any other act where the PC is trying to get another to change their mind.
Religion (Int)
Textbook Knowledge of the gods, their lore, and followers. This does not mean the PC is a follower of a god, it just means they have learned about them.
Sleight of Hand (Dex)
Stealing, pickpocketing, or placing an item without anyone noticing.
Stealth (Dex)
Moving or hiding without being detected, sneaking
Survival (Wis)
Practical knowledge of an environment, be it the forest or a big city. Knowing where to step in a swamp, knowing where to find food and water, knowing which areas of a city to avoid. Anything a PC would practically need to know to survive in an area.
Saving Throws
Many spells, diseases, and effects will have the players roll a “Saving Throw” to try to avoid them. If a spell requires a saving throw, it will specifically state such and give you a DC. If the players accidentally set off a trap or fall, you should have them roll a saving throw to attempt to avoid damage. Use the chart below for a quick reference on when to use which saving throw:
Saving Throw:
Situation or Reason
Strength
When players are pushed or hit with a force they are trying to resist. Examples could be strong wind, waves, being pulled by a crowd,etc.
Dexterity
Use when players are trying to dodge out of the way of danger, such as avoiding a triggered trap, or when trying to minimize damage, like landing on their feet after falling off a bucking horse.
Constitution
Use when players are trying to either hold down something gross or toxic (think alcohol or a nasty meal) or when they have eaten or interacted with something poisonous or potentially deadly, such as eating poisonous mushrooms or being exposed to a disease.
Intelligence
Used to resist spells
Wisdom
Used to resist spells
Charisma
Used to resist spells
Difficulty Class (aka DC)
When players roll and ability check or saving throw they are rolling against a Difficulty Class, or DC. If the players roll a number equal to or greater than the DC, they succeed. If they roll a number less than the DC, they fail.
Spell save DCs will be listed, but you will often need to come up with your own DCs for ability checks and strength, dexterity and Constitution saving throws. This seems tricky, but it is easy if you use this chart:
Difficulty Level of Action
DC
Very easy to do
5
Easy to do
10
Manageable for a skilled person
15
Difficult to do
20
Very Very Difficult
25
Nearly Impossible
30
Resting and Hit Dice
After combat, it is likely that your players are going to look to rest up and recover hit points and spell slots. There are two types of rest in D&D, short rest and long rest.
Short Rest- Lasts for one hour. Some classes regain their spell slots after a short rest. Players can choose to use some of their hit dice to heal up during this time. IF they do this, they will not have those hit dice available when they take a long rest.
Long Rest- Takes 8 hours. Some classes only regain their spell slots and abilities after a long rest.
Important Pages to Remember
While there are other rules that will come up during a session, these are the most common and most used rules that you will need to know. Make sure to have your copy of The Players Handbook and Dungeon Master’s Guide nearby in case you need to look something up. I recommend having the following pages bookmarked:
Player’s Handbook page
Information
P. 145
Armor
P. 149
Weapons
P. 150
Adventuring Gear/Item List
P. 151
Equipment Packs
P 153
Potion of healing
P. 157-158
Mounts, food, and lodging prices
P. 181
Movement, travel time/pace
P. 183
Vision and Light (visibility, darkvision)
Dungeon Master’s Guide page
Information
P. 85
Random Encounters
P. 89
NPC Builder
P. 108
Wilderness features and survival
P. 112
Creating Settlements, Random buildings
P. 120
Making Traps
P. 133
Treasure
P. 145
Magic Items
P. 245
Conversation reactions with DCs
P. 256
Diseases and Poisons
Common DM Mistakes to Avoid
Now that you have a basic idea of which rules to focus on and where to find useful information in the rules books, let’s talk about some common mistakes new and veteran DM’s alike often make:
Running Your Own Adventure Right Away
)ften, new DMs want to run their own adventure for their first campaign. I do NOT recommend this. Unless you are a seasoned player who already knows the rules and flow of D&D, you will have a very difficult time creating a balanced campaign your first time.
I recommend you run a published adventure first to both decrease your stress level and give you a good idea of how a great story is told. Published adventures will have encounters planned out for you, giving you an idea of how to structure your own encounters, and give you descriptions of areas to help you paint the picture for your players. These published adventures will train you in Dungeon Mastering, and they are a great place to start!
I have listed all the published adventures on my DM Must Have page, along with summaries and review as well as links on where you can purchase them online. But I do ask that you stop by your local game shop before you buy online. #SupportLocal!
Not Being Prepared
This is a mistake all DMs are capable of, no matter how long they have been playing. Whether you are running a published campaign or your own creation, you need to prepare for the session! This means having the following:
A list of random NPC names and descriptions
A list of taverns and shops
A list of possible encounters
If running a published encounter, make sure you have READ IT IN ADVANCE *I hate that I have to actually say that..
If you are running your own creation, make sure you have ACTUALLY PLANNED SOMETHING.
Just having these few things will help your game run smoothly and quickly, decreasing the awkward silence as you try to figure out what to do.
If this sounds daunting to you, don’t worry! I have created a 1 Hour DM Prep Binder that you can have for FREE. Just sign up for our DM League and I will send it to your email! Sign up below:
Not Knowing What Your Players Can Handle
I myself have been guilty of this one. You need to have a good understanding of what your party can handle at what level. You can’t just go through the Monster Manual, pick out some cool looking monsters and throw them at your party. *guilty*
How much your party can handle depends entirely on your party’s make-up and how well rested or worn down they are when they get to an encounter.
Remember, just because you have something planned, doesn’t mean you need to use it right then. If you have miscalculated an encounter correct in the moment, don’t make your player pay for your mistake. If you don’t have any idea how to tell how much your party can handle, I have the perfect step by step guide for you. Check out my article, Building Balanced Encounters and follow the steps to create well-balanced and fun encounters at any level!
Not Managing Your Group Well
As the DM, you manage the group. This means if someone is being distracting, mean or overbearing, you have to handle it. This can be intimidating to many, but for the health and longevity of the group, you have to do. Have one on one conversations with difficult party members, and be sure to set clear expectations before you begin the campaign, which we outlined above in the player’s responsibility section.
No matter what skill you are trying to improve, you need feedback. You need to be open to it and you need to ask for it. DMs tend to be bad about this, especially veteran DMs. If you want to continually get better at DMing, you need to ask your players for feedback.
This can be difficult, as most players don’t want to hurt your feelings by giving criticism. To get honest answers, you will need to do more than just ask, “Was that okay?” at the end of every session. That’s why I made these “Exit Slips.” At the end of every night, have your players anonymously fill out an exit slip and put it in a bowl or box. Then you can read them later and see what everyone’s favorite and least favorite part of the night was. These will give you quality feedback without any awkwardness.
Feel free to download and print it here!
Not Forcing Connections between the Party
Many first time DMs don’t want to put too many requirements on their players for fear of looking overbearing. However, if you allow the party to be comprised of a bunch of individuals who don’t know each other, have completely different backstories, and have no interest in staying together, your campaign will be a nightmare. You will spend several sessions just trying to bring everyone together and once you finally manage to do so, you will spend the rest of the campaign trying to keep them together!
I recommend this simple trick for your first campaign. Have everyone sit around the table, then instruct everyone to talk with the person on their left and come up with a reason why their characters know one another. Now everyone has two connections to the group, making your life a whole heck of a lot easier!
Tips for Becoming a Dungeon Improv Master
Let the Dice Decide
Don’t shoot down player ideas, let the dice decide if something will work or not. Let them try the crazy idea, they usually lead to more enjoyment than your original plan would have anyway. Don’t be a stick in the mud, let players do what they want and let the dice decide what works and what doesn’t.
Just Roll with It– The most important rule to dungeon improv is “The Rule of Cool.” If your player asks to do something that would be really impressive or cool, let them do it! Give them advantage on the roll or don’t even have them roll, just let them succeed. Of course, you need to do this in moderation, but, overall, the rule of cool states that if it is awesome, it should be allowed.
Pay Attention! Notice what your players are doing and saying. Notice what makes them excited and add more of it, pay attention to when they are nodding off and change gears. Paying attention to your players intentions and desires will go a long way in creating engaging scenes!
Know character backgrounds and use them- If you have a player that knows Thieves Cant, throw it in randomly. You don’t even need to have a plan, you can come up with one later, just have the player keep noticing random phrases in Thieves Cant around the city. If you have a player with a criminal background, have wanted pictures posted around the city and watch them panic trying to tear them all down. Just knowing what motivates or frightens your players will give you options as you improvise situations.
People Watch- It can be really difficult to come up with NPCs on the spot. However, if you pay attention to people around you on a daily basis, this will be much easier. Listen to how people talk. Pick up on ticks and quarks you think are fun and write them in your notebook. This will give you limitless ideas for NPC personalities that you can use on the spot!
Be Ok with Not Knowing– The art of dungeon improv is to be completely ok not knowing what the heck is going on. Just keep smiling, agreeing and throwing out hooks your players may or may not bite at. And know that whether they do or don’t, they are going to have a great time!
You are about to embark on an amazingly satisfying, frustrating, and exhausting journey. You will have incredible sessions and mediocre sessions. Remember to think long term. Not every session will be amazing, but there will be something amazing in every session.
Keep focused on the overall goal of creating an epic adventure with friends, and you are sure to succeed, Dungeon Master!
We need more DMs like you in the world. That’s why we are here. So be sure to check out more tips and tricks to keep your games rolling!
Until next time,
May your game have advantage, my friends!
-Halfling Hannah
Everything You Need to Start Painting Amazing Miniatures
Buying miniatures can be expensive! One way to save on the cost is to buy unpainted minis and paint them yourself; however, this can be an intimidating endeavor, especially if you don’t consider yourself an artist. I know how that feels. I can’t draw an identifiable stick figure, how in the world am I going to paint a detailed miniature?? I thought, but I did it! And so can you! This post will give you a list of all the tools and techniques you will need to start painting incredible miniatures right away as a first timer!
To begin painting incredible miniatures you will need the following tools:
Paint brushes: round brushes sizes #2, #1, and #0 and a flat brush size #2
Paint: A beginners kit of modeling paint (recommendation below)
Primer: I recommend black to start (brand recommendation below)
You will also want to know how to use the following techniques:
Hot Water Trick
Dry Brushing
Find and Fix Seams
Ink Washing
If you have these basic tools and knowledge of these basic skills, you can paint miniatures that look just as good, if not better, than the kinds you can buy at the store! Guaranteed! Here’s how!
Brushes
There is a mind boggling amount of sizes and styles of paint brushes, and just as many opinions of which ones you should buy. The paint brushes you will be looking at for miniature painting are going to be “round” brushes categorized by size. Round brushes come to a point, which is essential for painting details. “Flat” brushes do not have a point, but flatten out creating a much wider painting area.
Here are the sizes of round brushes you will want:
Size #1: This will be your general purpose brush. You will use this brush for large sections of clothing, shields, large miniatures (such as monsters) and other bigger areas.
Size #0: This is the brush you will use for nearly all your details. It is slightly smaller than the Size 1, allowing you get paint details more easily. I paint nearly all my details, even the smallest ones, with a Size 0 brush because it is large enough to hold paint, but small enough to fit into tight spaces. I do recommend having a few sizes smaller for really tight spaces, but those tiny sizes will not hold much paint. The key is a sharp point, not a smaller brush.
Sizes #00 (2/0) or 000 (3/0): These are the smallest brushes I would recommend using. Brush sizes can go all the way down to 10/0, but they aren’t as useful as you might think.
Size #2 Flat Brush: You will also want to pick up a CHEAP size 2 flat brush for Dry Brushing (a technique covered later in this article). Dry Brushing is really hard on brushes and not an exact science, so you don’t want to spend much on the brush you plan to use for this. You also don’t EVER want to use your good brushes to Dry Brush.
Style & Brands
There is a lot of discussion about synthetic brushes vs natural brushes. At the beginning, you shouldn’t worry about this debate. You should get the cheapest brushes you can because you WILL ruin them. Practice with cheap brushes until you are more confident, then gradually start purchasing some more expensive ones. For now, I recommend this set from Amazon. It is a decent quality that comes with all the sizes you need, plus some of the smallest sizes you can play with (because I know even if I tell you not to use them, you will. It’s ok. Your only human).
As for brands, this, again, doesn’t really matter at the start. My first paint brushes were a used set from a local hobby store for .99, and I survived and even managed to get some great results! You will want to experiment with different brands and styles as you progress in your skills. Each brand and brush has a different personality, you just need to find one that fits you. For my first few sets I just bought the ones that looked the coolest, after all, I’m human too. I tested several styles and brands of brushes before finding my fit.
Don’t invest in the expensive stuff until you are far enough into this hobby to appreciate your tools. I am not saying that brushes don’t make a difference, they most certainly do, I am saying you won’t be able to recognize that difference from the start. So start cheap and as you advance in skill, invest in your tools.
However, the brush you choose to start with, or even the brand of brushes you invest in later on, will do you no good if you don’t care for them properly.
Caring for Your New Brushes
Everyone talks about which brushes to get, but no one talks about taking care of them. An expensive brush can quickly become a crappy brush if you aren’t caring for it correctly, and a crappy brush can last for years and do a great job if given the proper attention. If you notice that your brushes are starting to split and fray, making it impossible to paint details, it is much more likely that you have mistreated your brush than that the brush was a terrible brand.
To properly care for your brushes:
NEVER get paint up into and onto the metal part holding the hair. The pigments will never EVER come out and when they harden, they will cause the fiber to split.
NEVER hit or grind the brush onto the bottom of your cleaning glass as this will cause fraying. Simply move the brush back and forth in the water.
ALWAYS dry your brushes after cleaning. Use a soft towel and gently pull it from the handle to the tip to avoid split hairs.
NEVER press the brush into the towel to force the fluid out while drying.
BEFORE putting your brush away for storage, form the tip to a nice and sharp point with your fingertips.
If you can, store your brushes by hanging them with the tips down to help them dry and maintain a sharp point.
REGULARLY use Brush Soap. You won’t believe how much unseen pigment comes out.
Some More Tips for Brush Care:
Don’t put the plastic tubes back on the brushes after use. It is far too easy to accidentally catch a few fibers and kink them.
Only use old or cheap brushes for mixing colors, the motion will work too much paint into your brush and cause fraying.
Metallic paint are harder on brushes because they contain larger pigments, use a separate set of brushes for metallic paints.
Never push your brush over raising areas or into corners as this will bend the tip of the brush and cause it to lose its sharpness. The trick is to pull the brush’s side along the border. If it does not work you probably did not thin your paint enough.
Once you have learned to properly care for your brushes (even the cheap ones) and you begin to see the difference a quality brush will make, then it is time to upgrade. But, again, upgrading will do you no good if you don’t take care of your tools. If you are ready to upgrade, I recommend the Winsor & Newton Series 7.
Even if you can’t afford expensive brushes for a while, taking care of your cheaper brushes will ensure you get quality results and are not constantly having to buy brushes. The greatest factor is in the care for the brush, not the brand itself.
Paints
“This one will be easy! I can just grab any paint from the store because paints are paints, right?”NO.
Do not try to paint your miniatures with cheap acrylic paint! This kind of paint is much too thick and will cover the details or you miniature. Similarly, don’t try to use watercolors, as they are much too thin. You will want to use a brand of paint specifically designed for miniatures. There are several types to choose from and you will, eventually, want them all. I will outline the purpose of each below, but note for your first few miniatures, you will only need a starting set of miniature paints, I started with this box set and still use it! It has everything you need to get started.
Primer– Do not skip this! Yes, I know some miniatures say “Primed and ready to paint!” but you will want to prime them anyway.
The purpose of priming is two-fold. First, it serves to create an even surface for the paint to stick to, minimizing differences in surface quality. You will want to go ahead and prime all your pieces because, even after washing, some parts of the miniature will repel paint, making it difficult to paint and creating spotty results.
Second, priming gives you a base color. It is incredibly time consuming to try to paint all the “background” areas, that is, the nooks and crannies of your piece. If, however, you prime it with black or white primer, then those areas are already done. I almost always prime my piece with black primer, unless I am painting something that is going to end up primarily white, like a unicorn, or a piece that will have a lot of bright colors I don’t want darkened, then I use white.
Paints:
Can you use acrylic paint on miniatures? Yes, but it has to be the high quality kind, and you will need to thin it considerably to be able to use it. There are tons of videos and articles out there about using acrylic paints, and I can see the appeal. They are, most often, much cheaper and can have greater color variations, but unless you are skilled with thinning and mixing paint, you will not achieve the results you would using model paints.
Modeling paints are specifically designed to stick to plastic surfaces and are much thinner than other types of paint, helping them to flow into nooks and crannies much easier than thicker paints.
Even modeling paints will still need to be thinned, but much less than other types. If you are a beginner, you will want to invest in the more expensive modeling paints as they will be much easier to work with and give you better results. If you try to use acrylic paints right out of the gate, there it is likely you will get frustrated, be unhappy with the results, and give up on this hobby. I don’t want that!
You don’t need an entire collection of paints right away, that will happen naturally over time. Just pick up a set, like this one that I started with, or a few basic colors, then branch out from there.
Ink Washes:
When I first started painting, I had no idea ink washes even existed. I wondered how people could get shading effects and different tones of colors on their miniatures, mine never looked like that. I thought it was just a difference in ability, until I realized they were just using a simple trick I didn’t know, ink washes.
These come in a variety of colors and tones and are used to create depth and shading on miniatures. Washes are very very thin and you don’t need much to go a long way. Once you are finished painting and the figure is dry, simply coat it in a wash and admire the results! It looks like you spend hours shading in just a few simple strokes! Even as a beginner I would recommend you get a wash or two and try it out. It is just too simple and incredible to ignore!
Metallic Paints:
To make weapons and armor look more authentic, there are metallic paints available. I love to use metallic paints! They add a great pop or any miniature. I even use metallic paints when Dry Brushing to make scales look shimmery. Metallic paints can be used on their own for bright metals, or mixed in other paints for a more subtle effect (like the cast iron pot I painted below). Metallic paints are really no harder to use than normal paints and often come in starter sets.
Bases
You aren’t finished with your miniature after it is painted, you still have to mount it on a base. Bases are important because they help to balance the figure as well as allow you to move the figure without touching it. Repeatedly touching the painted figure with cause the paint to fade and chip away. You don’t want that after all your hard work! So put that figure on a base and yell at your players when they move it wrong! (okay, maybe not yell, but correct them! You did work hard on that after all!) You have two options for bases.
Basic Bases
When I first started painting miniatures, I chose to mount them on simple back bases. This is a great option if you don’t have the time and money to invest in decorating bases. After your figure is completed, you just need to glue it to the base using a clear drying glue (I use super glue). You are done and ready to start using the piece! If you want to take it to the next level, you can actually decorate the base of your miniature as well!
Decorating Bases
If you want to really set your pieces apart, decorating the bases of your miniatures is a great way to showcase your hard work. There are lots of ways to base your miniatures, which I will cover fully in another article.
Helpful Accessories
Magnifier Holder/ Handle
Although not necessary, you may find it is helpful to have something to hold the miniature while you paint it, allowing you to rotate the figure without touching it. There are a few styles for this function.
You can get what is called a “handle,” a simple device that lets you secure the base of the figure in the grip so that you can hold the handle while you paint. These are often cheap and many people like them. Handles do have a flat bottom so you can set the miniature down to mix paint, move things around or pet your cat, but they don’t offer anything other than a way to hold the figure while painting. They are a great, cheap option to start with.
You could also purchase a painting stand. This stand allows you to clip the miniature at any angle you need and has a magnifying glass to make detail work easier. This is what I use when I paint highly detailed figures, but for simple figures (which you should start with) a simple handle works just fine!
Head Lamp/Light Source
You will want to make sure your painting area has a significant amount of light available, but not just overhead light. You will want a light source you can easily manipulate and move to best be able to see your miniatures as you paint. This could be a lamp, but I prefer to use headlamps. I look like a dork, but I always have the light I need at just the right angle! Any other kind of light source simply got in the way as I painted because I often lean over the figures as I paint to get better views of them. I found headlamps to be the perfect solution…as long as you don’t mind being laughed at.
Prepping Tools & Techniques For Beginners
There are a few tricks that are essential for a beginning painter to know. Just by using these few, simple tricks, your miniatures will come out 10xs better than if you just starting painting away!
Hot Water Trick
Often, due to packing or shipping, you will find that figures holding weapons will have bends. Once removed from the package, the bend in the weapon won’t go away. Is it faulty or ruined?
Nope, you just need to know the hot water trick. Boil some water and let it cool slightly. Then fill a small bowl with ice water. Submerge the bent part of the figure into the hot water for about 10-15 seconds, just long enough to make the plastic pliable. Then correct the bend in the figure and immediately submerge it in the ice water, re-hardening it. Presto! Perfect figure! See the whole process in the short video below!
Finding & Fixing Seams
When I first started painting, I didn’t think seams on my figures were a big deal. After all, they would be painted, so no one would see them! I was oh so wrong. After learning how to dry brush my figures, I realized the seams, which were raised, really REALLY stood out after painting. Fortunately, seams are easy to take care of. You just need a cheap model file, like the one below, or a sharp hobby knife. Simply cut away the extra material, if there is enough of it, and file the seam down to match the rest of the figure.
Dry Brushing
This incredibly simple technique will really take your painting to the next level! Dry brushing adds highlights to figure, making raised details stand out.
To dry brush, take your flat #2 brush and load it with just a TINY bit of white or light colored paint. Now wipe that paint off on a dry paper towel until you aren’t sure if there is any paint left on it. Trust me, there is. Dry brushing requires a precious little amount of paint, and if you get too much on the brush, you will ruin the paint job you just did.
Now test the paint amount by lightly stroking over a not-as-noticeable section (in case you got too much paint). You should just barely see the raised details start to pop as the color is lightened. “Scrub” (or make light strokes in all directions) the brush over the entire figure to create epic highlights. Check out the video below for a step by step tutorial on how to do this!
Ink Wash
Dry brushing highlights raised details on a piece, but ink washes create shadows and add depth. You will want both to make your miniatures stand out.
Pick an appropriate wash for the color of your figure, making sure it is not too dark for the colors you have chosen. Then use a large brush to coat the entire figure in ink wash. Simple? Yes. It is. But amazing! And most beginning painters don’t even know it exists!
Green Stuff
If, for some reason, you want to add to a miniature, such as adding a magic stone to a shield, or cover some details you don’t like, you need to know about Green Stuff.
Green Stuff (that is it’s actual name) is a plastic putty that comes in two parts. You mix the two together, like Play-dough, and it turns green. You can then sculpt it and attach it to the figure. After drying for 24 hours, it is just as durable as the original plastic and you are ready to prime and paint your custom piece! I use Green Stuff constantly for a variety of things while painting and making terrain. It is great!
What to Paint First
Now that you have your tools, you are probably itching to paint something! That’s good! However, I do have some words of wisdom on what you should paint first.
Keep It Simple
Please, don’t try to paint something with a ton of details right out the gate. Yes, those adventurer figures are cool. Yes, it would be awesome to show off. But more likely you will sit down to paint and have no idea where to start. You will start to paint all those little details and get lost of what things are supposed to be, what colors to use and how to even paint them. They seem impossibly small at first!
For your first miniature, KEEP IT SIMPLE. Pick a monster with very little detail. I suggest a spider, wolf, or a simple humanoid, like an Orc.
Picking a simple first project means you can finish it quickly, feel good about what you have accomplished while still practicing some of the tips above to make it look epic.
Start with these simple monsters while you practice basic techniques and learn how to use your tools, progressing to more and more complex figures gradually.
Try Something New Each Time
Don’t try to be perfect right away. Each time you paint, pick one area or technique to work on. This large snake, for example, is a great miniature to practice dry brushing on, as that is pretty much all that it needs.
Trying to do everything right away will just result in a mess. Take your time and practice just one skill at a time until you feel comfortable with it.
Being Okay with Imperfections
I am a perfectionist too. Most of us who DM and paint our own miniatures are. We love the satisfaction of doing something masterfully. And you will get there, but you won’t start there. I still cringe when I pull out my beginning miniatures, seeing my obvious mistakes and flaws, but my friends don’t see those and even if they did, they wouldn’t care. Stop being so hard on yourself. Your figures aren’t going to be perfect, perhaps ever.
On each piece I paint there are things I don’t like or can’t get just right, and I have learned to be okay with that. If you try to make every miniature perfect, you will be working on the same one for years. Where’s the fun in that? Do your best for now and know that as you practice you will get better and better! Even a poorly painted mini is still better than an unpainted one, right?
So get painting DM! If you want even more tips and tricks for painting miniatures, check out the other articles here at Halfling Hobbies, and like and subscribe to our YouTube channel, /HalflingHobbies.